FHA vs Conventional Loan: How to Choose

Written and reviewed by the MortgageLoan.net Editorial Team · Last updated July 2026

FHA or conventional is the first real fork in the road for most buyers, and picking wrong can cost you for years. Both get you into a home. The difference is who they’re designed for and where the money goes. FHA loans, backed by the Federal Housing Administration, exist to help buyers who don’t have a big down payment or a spotless credit file. Conventional loans follow Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac rules and tend to reward borrowers who bring stronger credit and more cash. Neither is universally better. The smart move is to match the loan to your situation — here’s how the two actually compare, and how to tell which one fits.

FHA vs conventional at a glance

The core differences come down to five things: credit, down payment, mortgage insurance, loan limits, and the property itself.

Factor	FHA loan	Conventional loan
Minimum credit score	580 for 3.5% down; 500–579 with 10% down	Typically 620, with best pricing around 740+
Minimum down payment	3.5%	3% for qualified buyers
Mortgage insurance	Upfront premium plus annual MIP, usually for the life of the loan if you put down less than 10%	PMI only, cancellable once you reach about 20% equity
Debt-to-income flexibility	More lenient	Stricter, though strong reserves help
Property standards	Must meet FHA condition requirements	Standard appraisal, fewer condition hurdles

Where FHA wins

FHA is the more forgiving program, and for some buyers it’s the only realistic path to owning.

• Lower credit works. A score in the 500s can still qualify, where a conventional loan would decline you outright. If your credit is rebuilding, FHA opens the door.
• Smaller down payment barrier. At 3.5% down with a 580 score, the cash to close is within reach for more buyers.
• Easier debt-to-income rules. FHA tolerates higher DTI ratios, which helps if you carry student loans or a car payment.
• Gift funds are welcome. The entire down payment can come from a documented gift.

The catch is the mortgage insurance. FHA charges an upfront premium plus an annual one, and if you put down less than 10%, that annual premium generally stays for the life of the loan. The only way off it later is to refinance — often into a conventional loan once your equity and credit improve.

Where conventional wins

If your credit and savings are in decent shape, conventional usually costs less over time.

• Cancellable mortgage insurance. PMI comes off once you hit roughly 20% equity, so it’s a temporary cost, not a permanent one. This is the single biggest long-term advantage.
• Better pricing for strong credit. The higher your score, the lower your rate and PMI. Above 740, conventional pricing is tough to beat.
• No upfront mortgage insurance premium. You skip the FHA upfront charge entirely.
• More property types and higher limits. Conventional loans are more flexible on second homes, investment properties, and higher loan amounts.

The trade-off is a higher bar to qualify. You’ll generally need a 620 score at minimum, and the best terms are reserved for borrowers well above that.

How to choose between them

Three questions settle it for most buyers:

1. What’s your credit score? Below 620, FHA is likely your route. Above 680 and climbing, conventional starts to pull ahead on cost. If your score is on the bubble, a few months of paying down balances can flip the math — see the credit score you need for the best mortgage rate.
2. How much can you put down? If you can reach 10% or 20%, conventional’s cancellable PMI becomes a clear winner. If you’re closer to the minimum, compare both side by side.
3. How long will you keep the loan? Planning to move or refinance within a few years? FHA’s lifetime insurance matters less. Staying long term? The permanent premium is a real cost, and conventional’s cancellable PMI usually wins.

Don’t decide on the down payment alone. Factor in the full monthly cost — including mortgage insurance — and how long you’ll carry it. Start by pinning down a comfortable budget with our guide to how much house you can afford, then get quotes for both loan types so you’re comparing real numbers. If your credit is on the lower end, our roundup of the best mortgage lenders for bad credit is a good place to start.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is an FHA loan or a conventional loan better?

Neither is better across the board. FHA is usually the stronger choice for buyers with lower credit or a small down payment, while conventional tends to cost less over time for borrowers with good credit and more cash to put down. The right answer depends on your specific numbers.

Can I switch from an FHA loan to a conventional loan later?

Yes, by refinancing. Many buyers start with an FHA loan, build equity and improve their credit, then refinance into a conventional loan to shed the lifetime mortgage insurance. Just weigh the refinance costs against the monthly savings.

What credit score do I need for a conventional loan?

Most conventional loans require a minimum score around 620, but the best rates and lowest PMI are reserved for borrowers with scores of 740 or higher. FHA loans allow lower scores, down to 580 for the 3.5% down option.

Does FHA mortgage insurance ever go away?

If you put down less than 10%, FHA annual mortgage insurance generally lasts the life of the loan, and the only way to remove it is to refinance. Conventional PMI, by contrast, can be cancelled once you reach about 20% equity.

Advertising disclosure: MortgageLoan.net is an independent publisher, not a lender or mortgage broker. We may earn a commission when you request quotes through partner links on this site, at no cost to you. This does not influence our editorial assessments.